Young palms (that is, without visible trunk development) should only be transplanted from containers. Palms are not very tolerant of the extreme root disturbance that accompanies digging from a field nursery or previous landscape site until visible trunk development has taken place. This is most critical for species that characteristically complete a great deal of stem development deeply below ground (for example, Bismarckia nobilis, Latania spp., Sabal spp.). Even if the palms are not killed by premature transplanting, growth setbacks and possibly less than optimum caliper development may occur. Palms establish most quickly if transplanted during the spring and early summer when soil temperatures are on the increase. Many tropical palms exhibit reduced root function at soil temperatures below 65 degrees F, thus winter planting should be avoided if possible when tropical species are being used in slightly more temperate zones. In the tropics, time of year is not as critical from the perspective of temperature, though planting should coincide with the rainy season in order to reduce the need for supplementary irrigation during the first critical months of establishment.

ROOT BALL SIZE
From the list of palms whose root regeneration patterns have been studied it appears that the most common response is (1) some degree of branching of cut roots, the percentage increasing with the length of the stub (up to a point) accompanied by (2) some variable degree of new root initiation from the trunk base. In general, for single-stemmed palms less than 15 feet in height, a root ball of shovel’s width radius from the trunk is a common industry average for size and should provide for adequate root survival in those species exhibiting that response. For clustering or larger solitary specimens, an incrementally larger root ball may be advisable to insure successful establishment under site conditions that may be less than ideal. An obvious concern for the field grower is to minimize loss of soil from the field. A one foot minimum radius (from the trunk) is recommended for these palms. While a larger root ball may well increase transplant success, the additional weight and costs involved in transportation may not justify the slight gains in post-transplant survival. Queen palms will likely survive if dug with a minimum root ball of 6” radius from the trunk, but a larger root ball will increase root survival at the landscape site. Root branching in coconut palms (Cocos nucifera) does not appear to be dependent on the size of the root ball. In Sabal palms (Sabal palmetto), virtually all of which are dug from native stands rather than nursery grown, negligible root branching occurs, and new roots must be initiated from the trunk. For these two species, smaller root balls are acceptable.

ROOT PRUNING
Root pruning has generally not been considered necessary for palms, with the exception of Bismarck palm (Bismarckia nobilis) and a few others. However, if the species is a particularly high value palm for which replacement costs would be expensive, the extra labor may well be cost effective. For palms that must regenerate new roots from the trunk, root pruning 2–3 months before digging should provide adequate time for new root growth within the ball.

PREPARATION FOR TRANSPORT
When moving palms out of the field, they should be well supported to prevent injury to the tender heart. Some palms (for example, King Alexander, Archontophoenix alexandrae) are much more sensitive to heart injury due to rough handling than others, and require extra care in transport. For certain species with slender trunks (for example, Senegal date, Phoenix reclinata, paurotis palm, Acoelorrhaphe wrightii), a supporting splint should be tied to each trunk and should should extend into the foliage to protect the bud. Palms with very heavy crowns (for example, Canary Island date palms, Phoenix canariensis) should be braced similarly to prevent the weight of the crown from snapping the bud. Stems of clustering palms should also be tied together for additional support. A tree crane is usually required to lift large palms out of the field, and the trunk should be protected with burlap or other material wherever ropes, cables, chains or straps will be attached.

LEAF REMOVAL
The greatest loss of water in newly dug palms occurs from transpiration through the leaves. To minimize this, one half or more of the leaves should be removed at the time of digging. The remaining leaves should be tied together in a bundle around the bud with a biodegradable twine. The best method of insuring survival after transplanting into the landscape may be to remove ALL leaves on species like sabal palms that must regenerate all new roots from the trunk. Sabal palms have repeatedly exhibited higher establishment success rates when all leaves are removed when they are dug. Complete leaf removal may also be advisable during installation of any species where normal post-transplant irrigation is impossible. However, many buyers will object to this practice for aesthetic reasons. Where practical, misting or irrigation of the foliage may reduce water loss during the transplant process, though there is an accompanying risk of increasing disease problems in the canopy.

SITE PREPARATION
It is always best to install newly dug specimen palms immediately to minimize stress and possible loss of the palm. If delivered palms cannot be planted immediately upon arrival at the installation site, the palms should be placed out of direct sun and the trunk, root ball and canopy kept moist. Temporarily “heeling in” the root balls under a layer of mulch is advisable, especially if there are no other means of keeping the roots from drying out is available. Installation site conditions also contribute to the establishment success of transplanted palms. A well-drained location is essential; standing water should not appear at the bottom of the planting hole. If drainage is a problem at the site, a berm should be constructed to raise the root ball above the level of water. Though some palm species may adjust to less than optimal draining after establishment, standing water around a newly dug root ball will have adverse effects on root regeneration. The planting hole should be wide enough to easily accept the root ball and provide at least several inches of new growth from the ball. It need only be deep enough to situate the palm at the same depth at which it previously grew. The amending of backfill soil from the planting hole is not recommended, unless the surrounding site soil has also been amended. If the backfill soil differs greatly in structure and texture from the surrounding site soil, new roots will have a tendency to remain within the backfill. If amending the backfill soil is demanded, the volume of amendment should not exceed 25% of the soil removed from the hole.

PLANTING DEPTH
In general, palms should not be transplanted any deeper than they were originally grown. The root initiation zone of most palms (located at the base of the trunk) is sensitive in this regard, and planting too deeply can cause root suffocation, nutritional deficiencies, root rot disease and perhaps ultimately the loss of the palm. Unfortunately, it is still a common practice for installers to situate specimen-sized palms at various depths in order to create a planting of uniform height. The decline of deeply planted palms may take several years to become apparent, especially on very well-drained soils, but it can only be reversed by removing the backfill from the suffocated root initiation zone or replanting the palm. All air pockets should be tamped out of the backfill as the planting hole is filled. A berm should be mounded up at the periphery if the root ball to retain water during irrigation. The initial irrigation should be deep and thorough. Filling the planting hole with water up to the berm will be necessary 2–3 times to fully wet and settle the soil.

SUPPORT
Larger palms will require some form of bracing to maintain stability during the first 6–8 months after installation. Short lengths of 2” x 4” lumber should be banded or strapped to the trunk (a foundation of burlap or asphalt paper can be placed around the trunk under these), and support braces (also 2” x 4” on very large specimens) are then nailed into them. Under no circumstances should nails be driven directly into a palm trunk. Such damage is permanent, and provides entryway for pathogens and possibly insect pests as well.

ESTABLISHMENT CARE
The root ball and surrounding backfill should remain evenly moist, but never saturated during the first 4–6 months after installation. Supplementary irrigation is necessary unless adequate rainfall is received during this time period. Newly transplanted specimen-sized palms should not be expected to produce a great deal of new top growth during the first year after transplanting; much of the palm’s energy reserves will (and should) be channeled into root growth. Drenching the root zone 2-4 times during the first few months with a fungicide labeled for landscape use on soil-borne root fungal pathogens is recommended for high value palms. A light surface application of a partially slow-release “palm special” granular fertilizer can be banded at the margins of the root ball 3–4 months after transplanting. A foliar spray of soluble micronutrients may be beneficial during this period, since root absorption activity is limited. Macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium) cannot be supplied through the leaves in sufficient quantity to feed the palm, and should generally not be applied as a foliar feed. When the appearance of new leaves indicates that establishment has been successful, a regular fertilization program can begin.

LANDSCAPE USE AND CARE FOR PALMS
A well established palm in the landscape is largely a low maintenance item as long as a regular program of fertilization and irrigation suitable to the conditions of the landscape site and the needs of the particular species is received. Over-watering can be detrimental to palms that are adapted for dry conditions, and can lead to various disease problems (see Diseases of Landscape Palms), while failure to provide adequate water to a wet rain forest dwelling palm can result in poor growth and even loss of the plant. Palms are best planted in a situation where turf grass can be kept away from the trunk. Even a small mulched circle around the base of a palm is better than allowing turf to grow right up to the trunk base. The main reason for this is the prevention of trunk injuries from weed eaters, mowers and other lawn care equipment. Such wounds are permanent, and allow the entrance of disease organisms such as the Ganoderma fungus, and possibly some insect pests as well. Palms from arid regions are often not campatible with turf oriented irrigation schedules, and such species are best not planted as lawn specimens if irrigation will be frequent and shallow. Turf will also compete for water and nutrients with palms planted within the lawn, and growth may not be optimum when compared to the same palm planted in a large, mulched landscape bed. Within a landscape bed, consideration must be given to the compatibility of the palms to be used with the other plants that will be included. Will the massing of ground covers or annual flowers near the base of the palm create difficulty in properly fertilizing the palm? Will the water needs of the shrubs, ground covers or flowers in the bed prove detrimental to the palm? The high cost of replacing or moving specimen palms necessitates that one ask questions before installation.

WHERE TO USE PALMS IN THE LANDSCAPE
Palms can be used for a variety of purposes in the landscape. While few palms can really provide the same measure of shade relative to a broad-leaved tree, tall growing clustering palms or group plantings of solitary palms can function as shade trees for a small home or for a quiet nook in the backyard. Tall growing palms provide a strong vertical accent in the landscape, and can overpower a small building. For example, royal palms (Roystonea spp.) planted near a small home only serve to make the house appear smaller. Tall, solitary palms make effective border or boundary plantings for lining a long driveway or boulevard, while most tall clustering palms are effective as single accent specimens. The bold aspect of many palms draws attention to the area of the landscape that they inhabit. Palms combine as well with each other as they do with other types of landscape plants. A well-designed bed of various palm species can be the focal point of a subtropical landscape. Growth rates, habit and eventual size must be considered carefully when combining species to avoid a helter skelter mix that fails aesthetically. Small groves of the same species can also create an attractive landscape accent. King Alexander (Archontophoenix alexandrae), various Veitchia species and many other slender or moderate trunked species can be grouped successfully in the landscape. Densely clustering species such as the lady palms (Rhapis spp.), some Chamaedorea species and Areca (Dypsis lutescens) can be used to create a screen. Avoid planting tall growing palms directly under roof overhangs and eaves. A misplaced palm is one that will one day have to be removed.

PRUNING PALMS
Palms do not require pruning as we associate the term with branching, broad-leaved trees. The only trimming any palm needs is the removal of dead or badly damaged or diseased leaves. There is an unfortunate tendency for landscape maintenance workers to over-trim palms, removing perfectly good, green, functional leaves at the same time as dead or dying fronds are trimmed. The logic behind this practice, no doubt, is an attempt to lengthen the interval before trimming is once again necessary. The removal of healthy leaves is a disservice to the palm, especially those species whose canopy consists of no more than 8–12 leaves. Over-trimming reduces the food manufacturing efficiency of the living palm and can result in sub-optimum caliper development at the point in the crown where diameter increase is currently taking place. There is also evidence that over-trimming makes the palm more susceptible to cold damage.

Cold temperatures slow the growth rate of palms, reduce root activity and may weaken the plant enough to make it more susceptible to disease. Palms that have received balanced fertilization in the months leading up to the period of coldest temperatures are much more likely to survive and recover from cold damage than nutritionally deficient palms.
Frosts and freezing temperatures will kill the foliage of many palm species, and can reduce the function of water conducting tissue in the trunk. For just a small number of valuable palms, and especially if they are not yet too tall, coverage with burlap, sheets, or one of several fabrics available for this purpose may provide adequate protection. Anti-transpirants applied to the foliage may also help, but current research has not yet indicated that these chemicals provide significant cold protection. Tender palms have also been adequately protected by tying up the leaves in a bundle over the bud. Icing the plants with overhead irrigation works well if performed properly. The irrigation must be turned on before temperatures reach freezing and should continue until the ice visibly melts from the plant surfaces and temperatures rise above freezing.
The weight of the ice can, however, cause breakage of palm leaves. If the irreplaceable bud or “palm heart” survives exposure to freezing temperatures, the recovery of the plant is possible, but proper care in the first few weeks after damage is essential. Leaves with any amount of green tissue should be left on the plants. It may even be wise to leave completely dead leaves attached until the danger of further cold weather is past, since they will provide some measure of insulation to the growing bud. If the emerging spear is obviously damaged, it should be tugged upon gently to see if it will pull freely from the bud. If it comes free, the hollow collar of sheathing leaf bases that remains should be cleaned out with water.
A drainage hole should be carefully made at the base of this collar so that water does not accumulate inside and potentially lead to the rot of the growing point. Some palm growers cut this collar back to a point just above solid tissue. This has the same effect as piercing the base, but does eliminate potential insulation around the tender bud in the event of further cold exposure. Application of fungicide to the remaining foliage and bud immediately after damage and again 7 to 10 days later may help reduce further loss to disease. Copper based chemicals have traditionally been used for this purpose, but few are currently labeled for palms. Copper sprays should not be repeated more than twice because of the possibility of copper phytotoxicity. If healthy leaves are present on the palms, or as soon as new leaves emerge, a foliar fertilization with a soluble micronutrient mix should be applied and repeated at monthly intervals until growth is well under way. A complete fertilizer should be soil applied if this had not been done recently.

POSSIBLE PREVENTIVE ACTION
The secondary plant pathogens that cause death of the bud soon after freeze damage are likely bacteria present on healthy palm tissue at low levels, but become a problem only after the damage is received. Consequently, there may be value in applying a preventative spray of fungicidal copper BEFORE freezing temperatures are reached in order to reduce these bacteria populations to the lowest levels possible. This strategy has not been tested, however, under controlled conditions.

CRYPTIC COLD DAMAGE
Palms that were severely damaged during the winter should be watched carefully during the subsequent spring and summer seasons. Damage to embryonic leaves within the bud may not show up until those leaves emerge (as much as 6 months to 1 year after the freeze). If leaves emerging during the spring and summer months appear deformed, partially browned or otherwise abnormal, this may be indicative of this type of damage. In most cases, the palm will grow out of this later in the season. As the palm grows further, it may be noticed that the trunk is abnormally constricted just below the crown. Such constrictions occur as a consequence of environmental stress, including cold damage. Freeze damage to conducting tissue in the trunk may limit the ability of the palm to supply water to the canopy of leaves. Unlike typical broad-leafed trees, palms have no ability to regenerate conducting tissue in the trunk. Sudden collapse of some (or even all) of the leaves in the crown during the first periods of high temperature in the spring or summer after a winter freeze may indicate that this type of trunk damage has occurred. Unfortunately, there is nothing that can be done to remedy this, and loss of the palm may be inevitable.

Landscape Palm Fertilization Programs
The frequency with which landscape palms need to be fertilized depends greatly on the type of soil in which they are planted and the amount of rainfall (or irrigation) that they will receive.
In Florida, for example, poor, shallow soils coupled with heavy rainfall during the growing season results in a very low natural reservoir of essential plant nutrients. Thus mature palms in the Florida landscape should optimally receive a complete granular fertilizer formulated for palms (`palm special’) four times per year at a rate of 1.5 lbs per 100 square foot. `Palm special’ fertilizers contain additional magnesium and a complete micronutrient (`trace mineral’) amendment.
The palm special should contain 100% controlled release source of nitrogen, potassium and magnesium. The N:P:K:Mg ratio should be 2:1:3:1. Dropping below a minimum of two applications, even for the most budget conscious maintenance schedules, is not recommended. In California, rainfall is lower, soils are generally of much higher quality and the nutrient holding capacity of these soils should allow less frequent application of fertilizer. Elsewhere, palms planted on loamy-, organic-, or clay- based soils may also get by with less fertilizer. Ideally, dry, granular fertilizers should be broadcast throughout the entire landscape at the rate described above. If this is impossible it can be applied under the canopy of the palm, but should not be placed up against the trunk where newly emerging roots may be injured. If granular fertilizers will be used in conjunction with drip irrigation systems, the fertilizer should be banded directly below the drip emitters. Where rapid leaching of nutrients is not a problem, root zone drenches with a shallow injection of soluble fertilizer blends can also be used. On very sandy soils, especially in high rainfall areas, much of the nutrients in soluble, liquid fertilizers will be removed from the root zone before they can be absorbed by the palm’s roots.